This week’s newsletters came a day early because I’m taking off for the long weekend. Back Row will be back to its normal publishing schedule next week.
🎙️This week on the Back Row podcast: Former Us Weekly editor-in-chief and Celebrity Intelligence newsletter author Dan Wakeford joined me for a deep dive into the Olsens — from how they started acting as babies to founding one of the most successful American luxury brands ever.
Listen/watch to part one, documenting their childhoods through their NYU years, in Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. In part two for paid subscribers, we discuss how they built The Row, one of the most secretive brands in fashion. Watch/listen in Apple Podcasts and Spotify.
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LOOSE THREADS - Memorial Day Shopping Edition
A few of my favorites from Ayr, a brand I wear often because it is so brilliantly versatile: this long-sleeved T-shirt, which is so great on its own or layered when traveling or otherwise; this button-down shirt with a very chic stand collar for those of you still in a CBK mood; this silky skirt that could go from some offices to weekends and is easy to dress up or down.
You guys know I can’t say enough good things about these flat Margaux wrap sandals — they have a new thong wrap style in suede colorways that I’m also obsessed with. If you like heels this low pair, again, has a CBK vibe.
I am a sucker for these casual summer dresses from Dôen. For a higher neck, see this.
My favorite invisible, easy-to-apply sunscreen from Supergoop! (no relation to Gwyneth’s Goop): this for faces and this spray for bodies. (I am an absolute sunscreen nut and find these to be worth the splurge.)
Swimwear shopping can be a real horror of an activity (why is nearly every bottom kind of a thong that rides up past the belly button??), but I recently tried the swimwear from L’Agence and really like it. Bronze bikini top and bottoms here, and nice one-pieces here and here. If you’re feeling glitzy, this butterfly print is great.
Speaking of glitzy, it’s time for today’s Dolce & Gabanna Retail Confesh!
Behind the paywall today:
VIC on VIC fighting
What it meant when customers came in carrying Birkin bags
Thoughts on: Apple Martin’s first big movie role; Dior claiming a “cautious” approach to pricing; and Chanel’s sales results
Retail Confessions: Dolce & Gabbana
Stefano Gabbana was reported to be leaving Dolce & Gabbana last month. But then, the story quickly changed to clarify he wasn’t ceasing his creative work for the house, he just “stepped down from management positions.” A former employee of the brand’s Mexico City stores wasn’t surprised. “Dolce was family run. It was a whole mess,” they said. In the 2010s, when this person was employed, “they changed our uniform four times.” One day, Gabbana decided the employees should wear lace, so suddenly, everyone in the stores had to wear a lace dress. The same was true for the look of the boutiques — if Gabbana decided he wanted velvet interiors, an email would come through and changes would have to be made.
Still, this person stayed there nearly ten years. Unlike the other major luxury brands they worked for, selling clothing wasn’t all that hard. “It was so impressive that ready-to-wear was 80 percent of the sales, and accessories was only 20 percent,” they said. Here, when sales lagged, the stores put on events for clients and their friends, keeping the Champagne flowing so they’d buy more.
Such invitations kept clients coming back. “If you stop spending, they stop inviting you, and people want to be part of that private club,” this person said.
In this installment of “Retail Confessions,” in which luxury sales associates talk about what selling high fashion to the world’s wealthiest shoppers is really like, we’re going inside Dolce, Mexico City — where in the summer, when the wives and kids went away, “it’s mistress time.”
What were the customers like?
We had everyone here in Mexico — the classic woman who wanted the dresses for weddings and cocktail parties. The first lady of Mexico at that time was our biggest client. We also had women coming in with drug money.
How could you tell who was a drug dealer's girlfriend or wife? Did they look a certain way?
They had big boobs. They'd buy the tightest dress and heels. They wanted everything to have…
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