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Loose Threads

  • Remember NYFW highlight Sies Marjan? Designer Sander Lak is back on the calendar with the genderless label he started last year, Sanderlak.

  • Shein’s IPO valuation dropped to $25 billion, per Reuters. Four years ago, its valuation was $100 billion, but today, the U.S. and E.U. are levying tariffs on its shipments. While it’s still a juggernaut, investors aren’t sure it can ever reach its former growth rate.

  • Brands have at long last realized that influencer follower count and cultural relevance are two very different things, according to The Business of Fashion.

  • Since news is dead, a quick shoe roundup for your new denim, which is the topic of today’s issue:

Ahead, today’s big story…

Your 5 Favorite Denim Brands, Ranked

The end of summer is nigh, which means two things: One, influencers are polishing their pumpkins for the onslaught of fall lifestyle rage bait, and two, many of us are buying warm pants.

Thanks to all of you who took the Back Row fall denim survey, we have a representative sample of our community’s denim buying habits and favorite styles to inspire all your looming warm pants acquisitions.

Most of you own more than seven pairs and acquire at least two new pairs each year. Additionally, most of you spend more than $100 on each pair, although you also noted that high-quality secondhand denim can run much less, as can good quality workwear denim. “I work in a grocery store and need pockets for my pens, gloves, and box cutter (and phone),” said Marcia, who called out Dovetail Workwear's Maven and Britt. “These jeans also have slots for knee pads although I just strap external pads over. The heavy denim protects me against sharp metal corners, and I can wipe exploded orange juice on my pants if I have to. I wash them after every shift, and they’re holding up great after five years.”

Nearly ten percent of you said your favorite jeans are vintage or secondhand.

“They’re worn in, great fit in the ass but loose enough on the leg,” said Dalton of his vintage Wranglers. “I’m gay and from Texas, so they feel ‘homey’ and unpretentious.”

The thrill of the hunt also came up a lot. “I love the idiosyncrasies of vintage denim,” replied John. “Finally found the perfect pair last year at Santa Fe Vintage! I love how they fit and how I look in them but if I’m being completely honest that they’re tied to a great memory of a trip is at the heart of why they’re my favorite pair.”

Those of you looking for hyper-specific vintage styles, check out Jean Genie Vintage by Meg Younger. She helped the Love Story team find versions of the jeans Carolyn Bessette Kennedy wore and knows every deep cut of vintage Levi’s.

As with past surveys about bags and bathing suits, the ask here was open-ended (“tell me your favorite jeans”) — not multiple choice — yet a few runaway favorites emerged. Half of respondents cited fit as the reason for loving their go-to pairs. And nearly 10 percent of you said you prefer 100 percent cotton denim, which stretches and molds to your shape over time, while only slightly more advocated for stretch. Ahead, the top five most popular denim brands, followed by a slew of honorable mentions.

“80 percent of what people think they know is a lie.”

— former Hermès Paris sales person

That quote comes from the latest “Retail Confessions” column, and it’s the kind of story Back Row can publish because it is reader-supported, independent media. To read the piece and support this newsletter’s mission to tell you the stories you won’t find anywhere else, become a Premium subscriber.

1. Levi’s

Nearly a quarter of respondents picked Levi’s. The most popular style by far are the classic 501s (which now come in trendy browns for those of us looking to channel Jeremy Strong). “Hot take — rigid denim is so much more flattering than stretch. Because it’s non-stretch, 100 percent cotton, the wear-in is so amazing. They end up conforming to you in the best way. I’ve tried many brands — most at far higher price points — but 501 rules,” said one reader. “Excellent structure, feels solid, great fit on the hips and hip creases, comfortable even on long flights. Just a really reliable friend,” said another.

A slew of other Levi’s styles also came up, notably the 511 for men, and the Wedgie, which comes in various cuts: “If you’re usually relegated to curvy fits, this is a rare jean that embraces the body type instead of trying to make me look straighter,” said reader Annette.

2. Mother

While respondents loved Levi’s 501s for having no stretch, people loved Mother for the opposite reason. No strong consensus emerged on a favorite style, but readers called out The Weekender (“incredibly flattering”), the Runaway flare (“makes my legs look long”), and the Looker High Rise (“they are workhorses; only after seven years are they starting to wear thin”).

3. Frame

A very close third, readers praised durability and fit. Le Slim Palazzo came up repeatedly, “because they’re essentially fancy sweatpants that make my butt look good,” said one. “I feel my best in jeans that are full length and not skinny — these check all those boxes,” said Lori. The Hang are also a great cropped wide-leg style.

4. AGOLDE

A close fourth, readers called out the Luna (“heavyweight non-stretch denim, impeccable cut.”), the 90s Pinch Waist (“flattering to the waist but not tight, and comfortable”), and Harper (“a hold-you-in fit that isn’t too high-waisted, and the crop shows off your shoes”).

5. Madewell

Readers also love the Perfect Vintage Wideleg (“I ALWAYS get a compliment when I wear them out”) and the Low-Slung Baggy (“super soft, long — I’m 5’11” — timeless, fun”).

And the rest of the top 20:

6. Ayr, Secret Sauce: “They’re just the perfect jean — not too tight, not too loose, so chic, soft and comfortable.” (Ed. note: I have these and always get compliments when I wear them.)

7. R13, Straight or Boy Flare: This cult brand was praised for its flattering cuts and denim quality, which Bonnie described as “not raw, not crisp.”

8. Khaite, Danielle Stretch Jean: “They make my stumpy legs look very long and lean,” said one reader, while another noted that while Khaite runs expensive, you can find great pairs secondhand.

9. Gap, Long and Lean: “The fit. They lengthen my legs and make me look slim. Look great with boots and clogs,” said Alix Clyburn.

10. J.Crew, Wide-leg Sailor Jean and Relaxed Straight: “Well made… pockets for everything, flattering for an hourglass figure,” said Allison of the wide-leg.

11. Paige, Anessa Wide Leg Jean: “A great wide-leg fit that works for someone with thighs and a butt and comes in a million variations — different colors, styles, weights. I think I have seven pairs.”

12. 7 For All Mankind, Kimmie Bootcut Jeans: “The pocket position on the bum is also KEY to why I like this brand. If the pockets are too high on the bum and too small, they are super unflattering — these are perfect. Seven FAM also make their jeans LONG, and I have long legs,” said Becca.

13. Citizens of Humanity, Ayla Baggy Jeans: “A relaxed fit that isn’t sloppy. Soft enough to sit on a long-haul flight.”

14. Nili Lotan, Shon Jean: “Unique washes, great fit, little details that make them look different than the big brands like Mother, Paige, CoH.”

15. rag & bone, Saige Low-Rise Relaxed Straight Jeans: “I never thought I’d wear a pair of low-rise jeans ever again (I’m not insane), but this pair made me change my mind. Rigid but still flexible and perfect for my hourglass shape — this pair is just so flattering and stylish,” said Laura. (Note: these appear to be sold out in many shades but this is similar and the white are nice.)

16. AG Jeans, Mari High Rise Straight Jeans: “A wardrobe essential. Not skinny, not boyfriend baggy, not wide or palazzo — simply straight-leg versatile jeans,” said Vanessa.

17. Jamie Haller, The Kenickie Kickflare Crop Jeans: Readers praised the fit, fabrication, and how they work on all body types. “Haven’t gotten a bad pair,” said one.

18. Tibi, Sid Jeans: These are a specific look with wide leg that tapers for a slight balloon shape, but readers love these. “Even when it’s no longer in style, I would still wear it,” said Victoria.

19. The Row, Riaco Jean: “The fit, the feel, and the quality is just the best.”

20. Reformation, Cary High Rise Slouchy Wide Leg Jeans: “not too low-rise and flattering for a wide leg.”

“The Aura Is Luxurious”: Vogue Tongue-Bathes Zara

When you make it your publication’s mission to rehabilitate your industry’s most famous antisemite and glorify the wife and lavish wedding of one of the world’s least likable billionaires, what’s one more puff piece on the nepo executive of a globally recognized fast fashion company, famous for high carbon emissions and, as of this summer, “death pants”?

To be fair, it’s not hard to understand why Vogue would want to profile Marta Ortega Pérez, non-executive chair of the Inditex board and daughter of founder Amancio, and sic Annie Leibovitz on her. She’s glamorous and stylish, friend to fashion folk like Pieter Mulier and Linda Evangelista, and people are curious about the company and her life (her father is worth $140 billion). Plus, a lot of people shop at Zara (and other fast fashion brands) because they can’t afford anything else.

Vogue, however, writes like this is the year 1996, when comment sections were snail-mailed letters, and it was easy to be in the dark about things like sweatshop labor. The story fails to address why they feel this is the right time to work with John Galliano, how exactly the company is “sustainable,” and, crucially, this summer’s viral death pants. From the piece:

They’re also ahead of their competitors in terms of sustainability: according to François Souchet, founder of Swanstant, a firm that forecasts how climate affects economic outcomes, “Inditex has been both posting the strongest operating margin in the industry and the lowest emission intensity.”

Vogue’s Gaby Wood went to headquarters, and reported, “The aura is luxurious.” The campus is so big that when Marta needs to get from building to building, “sometimes it’s quicker to take a car.”

There’s a way to do this story while asking some journalistic questions about, say, carbon emissions, manufacturing ethics, the brand’s highly secretive nature, or her reclusive father. But Vogue continued in the tradition of trading access to Zara HQ for puffery, for a readership that has never been savvier.

The logical assumption is that Zara will fund the 2027 Met Gala, hence the 3,700-word tongue bath. If we learned anything from the Bezos Tech Gala of 2026, a puff piece (or two, in Lauren Sánchez’s case) seems to grease those wheels. Which means Vogue works in service of the Met Gala, instead of the other way around, solidifying Anna Wintour’s position in the power seat.

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Amy Odell is the New York Times bestselling author of Gwyneth: The Biography; Anna: The Biography; and the essay collection Tales from the Back Row: An Outsider’s View from Inside the Fashion Industry. Write her at amy (at) amyodell (dot) com. Submit a tip or story request anonymously here.

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